Cosmetic Industry's 200-Year Leap: From Unsafe Kohl to Standardized, Regulated Beauty

The cosmetics industry has undergone a profound transformation over the past two centuries, evolving from rudimentary, often dangerous, concoctions to highly regulated and scientifically formulated products. This significant progress in safety and standardization highlights a remarkable journey of innovation and consumer protection. As Parmita Mishra noted in a recent tweet, "in less than 200 years? we have perfected makeup over centuries of trial, error, and care. wild."

Historically, ancient civilizations utilized pigments and substances that posed considerable health risks. For instance, ancient Egyptians and Romans used kohl, which often contained lead sulfide, and other preparations with lead, mercury, and arsenic. Mishra highlighted this danger, stating, "those DIY pigments were unstandardized and kohl was made of chemicals that were VERY unsafe." These early cosmetics, lacking any form of regulation, frequently led to severe adverse health effects.

The early 20th century saw the burgeoning of a commercial cosmetic industry, but without robust oversight. Concerns over product safety eventually spurred legislative action. In the United States, the 1906 Pure Food and Drug Act began to address adulterated products, followed by the more comprehensive Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act of 1938, which granted the FDA authority over cosmetics. Subsequent amendments, like the Color Additive Amendment and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, further tightened controls.

Modern regulatory frameworks, particularly in the European Union, have set stringent standards for cosmetic safety. The EU's Cosmetics Regulation, fully implemented in 2013, prohibits animal testing for cosmetics and bans over 1,300 chemicals known or suspected to be harmful. In contrast, the U.S. recently enacted the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA), significantly expanding the FDA's authority to include mandatory facility registration, product listing, and adverse event reporting, though still regulating fewer substances than the EU.

These advancements in scientific understanding and regulatory enforcement have directly contributed to the safer, more reliable cosmetic products available today. The industry's commitment to research and development, driven by both consumer demand and regulatory pressure, continues to refine formulations and explore new, safer ingredients. As Mishra aptly observed, "look at how much better makeup has become today," reflecting the profound shift from hazardous ancient practices to a sophisticated, safety-conscious global industry.