Soleil Ho Transitions from San Francisco Chronicle Restaurant Critic Role After Four Years

Soleil Ho, the acclaimed restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, transitioned from their role in February 2023 after a four-year tenure. Ho moved to a new position as a columnist and cultural critic within the newspaper's Opinion section, a move they described as a natural progression. This development comes amidst discussions regarding the scope of restaurant criticism, as highlighted by a recent tweet from Susan Dyer Reynolds.

During their time as restaurant critic, Ho gained recognition for a distinctive approach that extended beyond traditional culinary evaluations. They frequently incorporated social, cultural, and historical contexts into their reviews, examining issues such as labor practices, gentrification, and cultural appropriation within the food industry. This innovative perspective earned Ho a prestigious James Beard Award for Distinguished Restaurant Review in 2022.

Ho articulated their decision to step down from the critic role as a desire to broaden their analytical scope. In a farewell column, Ho stated, "Four years doesn’t seem like a lot, but these particular years have been quite a ride," indicating the intensity of the period, particularly during the pandemic. They expressed eagerness to explore wider topics beyond food, including politics, art, and the internet, through the lens of cultural criticism.

Ho's critical style often sparked debate, with some readers appreciating the fresh, socially conscious perspective, while others felt it veered too far from traditional food assessment. The tweet from Susan Dyer Reynolds, which stated, "> "When I am reviewing a restaurant I review the food, not the owners’ politics. That’s why I wrote this piece on Soleil Ho (she was soon removed from her restaurant critic role at the Chronicle)," reflects this polarized sentiment. However, official announcements from the Chronicle and Ho themselves characterized the change as a voluntary transition to a new, expanded role, rather than a removal.

Ho's impactful four years redefined the boundaries of restaurant criticism, earning both accolades and controversy. Their shift to a broader cultural commentary role signifies a continued evolution in how food and culture are analyzed within major media outlets. This transition underscores ongoing discussions about the role of critics and the intersection of culinary experiences with wider societal issues.